In a country famed for its spectacular landscapes, there are still corners that feel like a secret. Tucked away at the very bottom of the South Island, stretching between Dunedin and Invercargill, lies The Catlins – New Zealand’s forgotten coast.
This is not the polished perfection of Queenstown. This is a land of rugged coastlines, ancient forests that tumble down to the sea, and wildlife that far outnumbers the people. It’s a place where time slows down, phone signal disappears, and nature is undeniably in charge.
If you’re looking to escape the crowds and discover a wilder side of New Zealand, this guide is your map. Welcome to The Catlins.
First, Some Essential Catlins Intel
Before you hit the road, there are a few crucial things to know:
- A Car is Essential: There is no public transport here. You need your own vehicle to explore.
- Allow at Least Two Days: While you can rush through in a day, you’ll miss the magic. A 2-day/1-night trip is ideal to explore at a relaxed pace.
- FORGET Your Phone: This is not an exaggeration. For most of the Catlins coast, you will have ZERO phone signal and NO mobile data. Download your offline maps (Google Maps, CamperMate) before you leave a major town. It’s part of the charm!
- Fuel Up and Stock Up: Services are few and far between. Fill your fuel tank in Balclutha or Invercargill and grab groceries before you head in.
The Must-See Stops on the Catlins Coast
The best way to explore is by following the famous Southern Scenic Route. We’ll travel from north to south (the most common direction, starting after Dunedin).
1. Kaka Point & Nugget Point Lighthouse
Your gateway to The Catlins. Kaka Point is a small seaside village, but the real star is a short drive away at Nugget Point (Tokata). A short, dramatic walkway leads to a lighthouse perched on a rocky headland, overlooking a collection of jagged sea stacks (the “nuggets”). It’s a breathtaking spot for sunrise and home to a colony of fur seals.
2. Purakaunui Falls
If The Catlins has a postcard image, this is it. A gentle 10-minute walk through a lush beech forest brings you to a stunning, three-tiered cascading waterfall. It’s one of the most photographed waterfalls in New Zealand, and for good reason.
3. Cathedral Caves
IMPORTANT: These magnificent sea caves are only accessible for one hour on either side of LOW TIDE. You absolutely must check the tide times online before you visit, or you will be met with a closed gate. If the timing works, you’ll be rewarded with a walk along a beautiful beach to explore the two massive, interconnected caves with incredible acoustics.
4. Curio Bay
This place is truly special and a must-do on any Catlins itinerary. It’s famous for two things:
- Petrified Forest: At low tide, an entire 180-million-year-old fossilised forest is revealed on the rock shelf. It’s one of the most accessible examples in the world.
- Hector’s Dolphins: This bay is a favoured hangout for the rare Hector’s dolphin, one of the smallest and rarest marine dolphins in the world. They often come incredibly close to shore to play in the surf, especially in the summer months.
5. Slope Point
Welcome to the southernmost point of the South Island! There isn’t much here besides a windswept cliff, a yellow signpost, and a collection of trees permanently bent sideways by the relentless Antarctic winds. It’s a beautifully desolate spot that makes you feel like you’re standing at the edge of the world.
6. McLean Falls
A short drive from Purakaunui brings you to what many consider the most spectacular waterfall in The Catlins. A beautiful 20-minute walk through native forest leads you to the base of McLean Falls, an impressive 22-metre cascade that tumbles down a series of dramatic terraces. It’s a fantastic photo spot and a true highlight of the region.
Your Guide to Catlins Wildlife
The Catlins is a haven for native wildlife. Here’s what to look for:
- Yellow-Eyed Penguins (Hoiho): Go to the hide at Roaring Bay (near Nugget Point) around dusk for the best chance to see these rare penguins return to shore. Be patient and quiet.
- New Zealand Sea Lions: You can often find these enormous marine mammals lounging on the sand at Surat Bay and Cannibal Bay. Keep at least 20 metres away – they are wild animals and can move surprisingly fast.
- Hector’s Dolphins: As mentioned, Curio Bay is the place to be.
A Sample 2-Day Catlins Itinerary
- Day 1: Drive from Dunedin. Stop at Nugget Point Lighthouse. Visit Purakaunui and Matai Falls. Check the tides for Cathedral Caves. End your day at Curio Bay. Stay overnight in the area (e.g., Curio Bay, Papatowai).
- Day 2: Enjoy a morning at Curio Bay (spotting dolphins, exploring the petrified forest). Drive to Slope Point. Continue on the Southern Scenic Route towards Invercargill, your launching point for Fiordland or Stewart Island.
Is The Catlins Worth It?
If you’re looking for luxury lodges and bustling restaurants, this isn’t the place for you. But if you crave wild, untamed nature, dramatic coastlines, and the thrill of disconnecting from the modern world, then a journey to New Zealand’s forgotten coast is an essential part of any South Island adventure.
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